|
fishing
docks
Permanent docks that are supported by large posts that
are usually found in shallow water provide more options for fish
because of the size of the posts and the amount of shade
that they produce.
Bass tend to hang around floating docks typically used
along deeper banks and tend to suspend in the top 5 feet of
water.
The walkway bridging the floating dock and shoreline
often gets ignored by angles, yet it attracts bass when they
are shallow especially during spawning season.
Pay attention to where you’re are catching fish around
docks. If you catch a couple of fish near the back corner of
the dock, chances are that’s where you will find bass
holding on other areas of the dock.
Accuracy is critical to successful dock fishing. Also,
bass will spook easily in clear water and lose their
aggressive instincts if a lure make a lot of noise upon
entry.
Cloudy skies hamper dock fishing because the fish roam
away from the cover. However, a sunny windless day positions
fish under the docks, where they are easier to target. In
fact, bluebird skies and cold front days make for good dock
fishing.
If the docks are getting a lot of pressure from other
angles, note how others are fishing them and do something
different. For example, if they are sitting on the deep
outside edge and casting to the side of the dock move to the
shallow side and cast towards deep water. If everyone is
throwing jigs and worms try pitching a crank bait or spinner
bait.
Big fish will always take the best location on a dock. If
you catch a big fish from a specific spot remember it. That
dock may continue to produce quality fish throughout that
season.
learn the three B's of
bassing
Every Cast is a Lesson
As students of bass fishing, each day we spend on the
water is also a day in the classroom. Every cast is a
lesson, and as we know, there are many, many lessons in
fishing. Even in a lifetime of fishing trips we cannot
master them all.
One of the most basic fishing accomplishments is to learn
the "Three B's" - the bait, the bottom and the bass. That's
what I'd like to talk about in this week's Inside Line in
terms of presentation skills. You see, every single cast you
make is a lesson in the Three B's. On each cast, you either
pass the test by catching a fish, or fail it by going
hitless.
Now, it is no disgrace to go hitless on a cast. In
baseball, the best ballplayers swing and strike out from
time to time. No one gets a hit every time, but keep in
mind, the potential is ALWAYS there for every bat swing or
cast to be a hit, and practice, practice, practice is
required to increase your "hit ratio" in baseball or in bass
casting!
FIRST B: THE BAIT
Imagine you take a tackle box full of lures to fish in
murky water on a dark night. As you try each bait in your
box one-by-one, you can't see the lure, and it does no good
to try to watch the line or the rod tip. In fact, the only
thing you've got is "feel" of the lure. In a certain sense,
you are fishing like a blind man by Braille. As you resolve
yourself to fishing by feel, you'll soon notice that each
lure model and weight has a distinct "feel" (its own
signature let's say) that is different from the feel of all
the other lures as you reel them back in the darkness. You
need to feel that special pull when it is working right -
and feel when it is working wrong. This feel is what I'm
talking about as our first B - "the bait". This feel is the
resistance each bait makes against the water when you are
working it correctly so that the bait is properly attracting
fish. The throb of a spinnerbait or wobbling of a
long-billed crankbait is obvious. Less obvious but just as
essential to know is the different feel when a 1/4-oz
Texas-rigged craw is working properly - and how that feel
should differ from a 3/8 oz. Texas craw. You need to learn
this difference in feel. You need to feel how the same 4"
Senko works different on a 1/4 oz. jig or 1/4 oz. Mojo rig
or 1/4 oz. Texas rig. It's all in the feel. This feel is
modified by the rod, reel and line you use, the line drag
against the length of line under water, wind drag against
length of line above water, and any current.
Now, go out on a crystal clear body of water under bright
sunny skies. Cast every lure in your tackle box again. Now,
you may be able to see the lure, watch the line and rod tip
intently, but the signature feel of each bait is still the
same whether clear or murky water, day or night. This is the
first of the three B lessons we are studying today - the
feel of the bait when it is working properly to attract
bass.
SECOND B: THE BOTTOM
Bass are basically bottom bandits. Eighty percent or more
of all the bass I have ever caught have been on the bottom.
The other twenty percent have been in mid-water or near the
surface, understanding wherever there is cover they'll get
all into it whether the cover is rising off bottom, in
mid-water or emerging near the surface.
Just like each type of bait has its signature feel, each
type of bottom also has a telltale feel you need to learn -
bushes, stumps, boulders, sand, mud, gravel, ledges,
drop-offs, different weed types, slopes, etc. You've got to
know what each section of bottom feels like, how to keep
your bait on or close to bottom, and how the bottom feel
differs from the other two B's - the bait and the bass.
There are three major mistakes to avoid when learning
this second B lesson:
1) Not getting on or close to the bottom to begin with on
the initial part of the cast, which requires you to strip
slack line off so the bait falls at approximately the same
rate as you hand-feed slack line off the spool until the
bait comes to rest on the bottom. At that point, the line
goes slack, and you can catch an awful lot of fish like that
just letting the bait sit quietly where it has fallen.
2) If no takers, begin a retrieve on and/or close to the
bottom. The second mistake to avoid here is to keep tabs of
what kind of bottom "feel" you are getting when you catch
bass. In general, open bottom is a low percentage of hits
whereas when you feel irregular stuff on the bottom, prepare
to stop the retrieve, shake the bait, bounce it off a few
things down there - and get hit! Now, it's important to know
if you are getting hit just as you come into stuff, smack in
the middle of the stuff, or as you are coming out of the
stuff, plus what is the stuff. Is it wood, weeds, rock
rubble, brush piles, etc? You need to know all this, so you
can pinpoint a pattern to repeat on your subsequent casts.
3) The third common mistake is not continuing to
freespool and feed line as required to keep occasional
contact with the bottom during the duration of the retrieve.
As you either drift, troll, drag or retrieve your bait,
you'll be going over gullies, cracks, drop-offs, up and over
big rocks, domes or ledges on the bottom. When that happens,
if you do not freespool line, your bait will be up in the
stratosphere like the Goodyear blimp flying far over the
heads of the bass down on the bottom below. As you go over a
crack, gully or other bottom depression (which is what the
bass lay in), or fall off the side of a ledge or rock, you
must be instantly prepared to drop the bait down however far
on a slack line to where the fish are in the gullies,
cracks, or on the drop off the top of a rock. When the line
bellies slack again, it usually means there's a fish on you
or you've re-touched bottom in the crack, gully or rock edge
which is just where you want it! Hits come on the fall as
the bait settles down, or as it lies there.
Bottom line, if your bait is not on or close to the
bottom, you are not effectively fishing for eighty percent
of the bass you'll encounter in your lifetime.
THIRD B: THE BASS
Well, this third B could have been called "The Bite" but
that is not exactly right. Many times you never feel the
bite. What you feel instead is "The Bass" after it bites
when it is holding onto the end of your line, just sitting
there, moving away, or whatever. So much has been written
about "bite detection" but it's often "bass detection" in
actuality.
With soft baits such as those made by Gary Yamamoto, once
you realize a bass is holding it, the bass is usually not
going to let go of the bait (unless you pull it away). So,
it is not 100% necessary that you feel the classic "bite"
but you do need to detect the bass holding onto the bait -
and you need to learn the feel of the bass holding on as
being different from the feel of the bait and the feel of
the bottom.
You also need to determine when the bait is inside the
mouth of the bass. When you swing and miss on the hookset,
it is usually because you pulled the bait away from the bass
too soon before the bait was fully inside its mouth. So, it
is not a situation with soft baits where you need to set the
hook as soon as possible. With soft plastics, the skill is
to determine how long you have to WAIT until the bass has
the bait sufficiently in its mouth before you set the hook.
The last thing most bass want to do is let go of their
prize. Don't pull it away from them too soon! In these days
of catch and release, there's a desire not to hook bass too
deeply either. I will routinely ratchet down one size if I
am hooking them too deeply, or ratchet up one size if I am
missing a few on the hook set.
fishing tips/resources
Article Written By: James
Buchanan
Its early spring and I have
just arrived at a lake that I've never fished before. I'm
there to begin pre-fishing for an upcoming bass tournament.
I have two days to pre-fish and I have to put together a
quality fish catching pattern fast. Ideally I want to put
together two or three different patterns in my two days of
practice.
I've rigged 10 rods and as I
prepare my boat to go out on the lake I remove from my rod
locker two old trusty flipping sticks, one rigged with a
half ounce BOOYAH Black and Blue Jig and the other with a
YUM Vibra King Tube. I also pull out rods that I've rigged
with a FAT FREE SHAD Junior and a FAT FREE SHAD Fingerling
both in the Citrus Shad Color. I yank out a 4th rod that
I've tied on a 3/8-ounce Silver Scale White BOOYAH Counter
Strike Spinner Bait with a Willow Leaf/Colorado Blade
Combination. I've spooled all my reels with Silver Thread
AN-40 Fishing Line. I use 10-pound test on my crank baits,
25-pound test on my flipping sticks, and 17-pound test on my
spinner bait rod. That should be enough tools to get me
started.
Before I take you out on the
lake, I need to take you back to the friendly confines of my
in-house office. This is where I actually began my
pre-fishing. Two weeks ago I obtained a quality lake map. I
also searched several WEB Sites on my computer looking for
lake reports, weather conditions, and what the lake offers
for cover. I wanted to know the history of the lake in order
to determine what the catch rates were for bass. I searched
for past tournament results for the time of year I would be
on the lake. I also located information on the average lake
levels, water clarity, structural features, and average area
temperatures. These were just a few key things I knew that
would help me when I arrived at the lake. Last but not
least, I spent several critical hours going over my lake map
marking key locations where I would begin my search. I have
a GPS installed on my boat and its one of the wisest
investments I've ever made. I couldn't do without it. When
I purchase lake maps I try to obtain the ones that have GPS
locations listed. After studying my map and locating several
points, creeks, and coves just off the main lake, I spent
more time entering the locations into my GPS.
As I pulled away from the
launch ramp I checked to ensure that my rods were secured on
the front deck of the boat, my life jacket was on and zipped
up, and that my emergency engine shut-off device was
connected to my life vest.
As I stated earlier, the
season is early spring, the water temperature is in the low
sixties, and based on the previous 5-day weather report it
has been clear and mild with highs in the upper seventies.
Taking under consideration the current weather conditions,
water temperature, and the time of the year, I expect to
find the bass in a strong pre-spawn pattern.
As I idle out of the no wake
zone, I begin what I call getting in tune with nature. I
watch the squirrels running around in the trees; hear the
birds singing, I observe a large group of cows off in the
distance with their head bowed to the ground as they feed on
the young shoots of green grass. A short run up the lake
takes me to my first pre-chosen fishing location in the
mouth of a small cove. The cove is located on the northwest
side of the lake. I chose to start on this side of the lake
because it is protected from the north wind and with the
days getting longer it receives the most sunshine and should
be a few degrees warmer than the east bank. As I lower the
trolling motor, I notice sea gulls diving and feeding on a
school of baitfish. This is where my getting in tune with
nature tells me a lot. You can almost bet if other wildlife
is active, so are the bass.
I turn on my depth finder
and place it in manual and set the intensity level. I'll
have to constantly adjust the intensity level as I maneuver
my boat into different depths of water. I'll do this to
ensure I get a clear picture of the thermal cline, bottom
hardness, and baitfish. Using my trolling motor sparingly I
guide the boat across a point while watching my depth
finder. On the depth finder I immediately notice large balls
of baitfish on the southern most point that forms the mouth
of the cove. The balls of baitfish are large and almost
cover the screen of my depth finder. They are located 8 to 9
feet deep. Without fishing I ease the boat over to the
northern most point in the mouth of the cove. I see more
baitfish on the depth finder but they appear to be somewhat
scattered in small blotches. Then I notice a few small arcs
indicating larger fish below the baitfish. I ease my boat
away from the point and pick up the cranking rod. The rod is
7 feet 6 inch long and made of fiberglass. I prefer using a
fiberglass rod when deep cranking. It's very flexible and I
tend to loose less fish because the hooks rarely pull out of
a fish's mouth. I make several casts with the Fat Free Shad
Junior bringing the bait across the point working it from
the top of the point into deeper water, no takers; I move to
the opposite side of the point and do the same thing, still
no takers. I move my boat all the way out on the end of
the point and start casting parallel to the north side of
the point. Just as I feel the bait loose contact with the
bottom I stop it. A few more quick turns of the reel handle
and I feel a slight hesitation in the baits movement through
the water and then a tug. I set the hook and after a short
battle I lift a small keeper fish into the boat. The fish
looks almost white in color indicating that it had just come
out of deeper water. She was full of eggs. The presence of
eggs in the fish tells me that the fish are indeed in a
pre-spawn pattern.
The fish didn't put up much
of a fight because of the cooler water temperature. I
release her and start up my big engine and idle into the
cove. The water depth in the middle of the cove is between
14 and15 feet. I navigate my boat closer to the north bank
as I watch my in dash flasher in search of structural breaks
and cover. I find what appears to be a series of stumps,
rocks, or logs in about 8 feet of water. I mark them on my
GPS and move on until I've surveyed the entire cove using my
depth finder. In the process I've marked 9 different pieces
of visible and underwater cover. I pick up the flipping
stick rigged with the BOOYAH Half Ounce Jig. I fish 5 of the
locations and catch 2 more quality fish in about 25
minutes. Not wanting to over fish the area I decide to
leave.
So far I've learned that the
fish are holding in 8-10 feet of water and I've caught them
on a jig and crank bait patterns. Now I need to expand and
test my patterns on several like locations in the lake to
see if I'm correct.
I visited 7 other locations
where I located and caught fish on the same two patterns.
For the rest of the day I spend my time idling around
looking for similar locations marking them on my GPS.
On day two of my
pre-fishing, I visited 4 of the locations I marked in my GPS
the day before. I tried a Spinner Bait and Carolina Rig in
all 4 locations with no success. I again fished through the
same 4 locations using the Fat Free Shad and Booyah Jig. I
catch 2 quality fish on the jig and 1 small keeper on the
crank bait. As I refined my two patterns it was evident that
my strongest pattern was the jig when it came to catching
larger fish.
At about noon on the second
day of pre-fishing, I put my boat on the trailer and headed
for the hotel. I had what appeared to be a solid game plan
and was committed to what I knew had worked. I also knew
that I had to be open minded enough to understand that you
can't predict what that old wile bass will do, therefore I
had to remain flexible in case the fish relocated or refused
to bite my jig or crank bait. There was a strong possibility
of this because with the warming trend they could move up
shallow to spawn at any give moment. If they did move up,
there were several large flats near where I was catching
fish and this would be where I would go if I lost touch with
them during the tournament. My hope was that they would not
move and I could duplicate what I had done the two previous
days.
If the weather conditions,
water level, and clarity remained constant I felt confident
that I could at least scratch out a limit of fish. But you
never know what will happen on tournament day. I'll be
competing against some great anglers and I'm certain that
they will be on top of their game. I fully expect it to take
17 to 20 pounds to come out on top.
The tournament begins
tomorrow and I feel great about the homework I've done. In
my next article I’ I’ll take you on the water to fish
the actual tournament. Until then, "KEEP CATCHIN'UM AND
LETTIN'UM GO."
JAMES E, BUCHANAN
|